Step inside this old butcher’s shop – once home to Michelin-starred La Canne en Ville – and you’ll find the hook rack still hanging above oak tables, white-tiled walls and green velvet banquettes. At the helm is chef David-Alexandre Bruno (ex-Comme chez Soi, La Villa Lorraine, La Ligne Rouge), guiding a vibrant gastronomic menu that spans four courses, showcasing local ingredients in every bite: kohlrabi ravioli with mussels in a puddle of dashi for the amuse-bouche; a divine veal tartare tartlet with oxtail jelly; then a surf’n’turf trilogy of smoked eel bavarois, raw flat oyster and Granny Smith apple brunoise, lifted by a celery and cucumber extraction. Game for more? Perfectly cooked venison finished on a Japanese BBQ, the leg meat shredded into a croquette, paired with salsify, kumquat jelly, oyster mushroom duxelles and a stunning sweet and spicy peppercorn sauce. And for the sweet finishing touch, a chestnut sponge cake topped with a chestnut, orange, lemon and yuzu cream. And if you want to share the feast, Quartz offers a table d’hôte communal dining experience on Saturdays. · Billie Relish

FEELING THIRSTY? Follow the sommelier’s lead as he take you on an exploration, with a white Anjou from Domaine des Brumes in the Loire Valley, to a grolleau and muscat rouge blend from Domaine des Sonnettes in Bugey, and finishing with an extra brut Austrian sparkling wine from Nibiru.

PRICE: Set menus €38-49 (lunch) and €88-125 (dinner), wine pairings €20-30 (lunch) and €48-72 (dinner).