Gamin! An exclamation that spills into your glass with all the mischief of a kid let loose. Run by naturophile Éric Ribeiro, this estaminet tavern with its time-worn hardwood floors and a barrel-shaped bar never stops surprising. Out front, the large terrace adds to the friendly neighborhood buzz, while a hidden garden out back shields you from prying eyes. And in between the two? It’s like temptation island, where you can easily lose track of time in the company of Syrah, the owner’s dog. Éric will gladly guide you through the hundreds of wines in all colors and from all horizons – even as far afield as California! Spotted on our last visit, among others: Spèrgle, made by Il Farneto winery in northern Italy using the long-forgotten spergola grape variety (€8.50 a glass); Montemarino 2021, a Ligurian cortese by Stefano Bellotti (€60 a bottle); and vin de liqueur from the Domaine de la Loue in the Jura (€63 for 700 ml). There’s also a selection of Cantillon beers (including Le Plaisir, an aptly-named lambic at €40 a bottle), Afri-Cola (€3.50 for 200 ml) and even Pajottenlander tomato juice (€4.30 for 200 ml). Not forgetting the well-sourced snacks that do the trick: Comté aged for 24 months (€13 for 130 g), olives (€4) and cheese and charcuterie boards (€16-17). · Bobbi Rossi