Guerric Siverberg sure has a story or two to tell about bottles. Fluent in living wines and spontaneous fermentation, he knows the plots and winegrowers of every bottle lining his walls or piled up in their boxes (Kumpf & Meyer, Clos Fantine, Saskia Van der Horst, etc.), with a preference for Alsace and Loire wines, like those from Xavière Hardy’s Domaine Les Terres Bleues. But his heart also beats for authentic, unpasteurized Normandy ciders from Maison Hérout, or non-carbonated Breton ones from Johanna Cécillon. So too for the Brasserie de la Mule in Schaerbeek, with whom he’s produced a ruby Berliner Weisse macerated with Grolleau, with a fruity and heady nose. // Cleo Popina

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Barycentre, a classy, sulfite-free Chardonnay from Vincent Augé in the Hérault (€20).