Entering the ring in Saint-Gilles: XXL pizza slices, Russo’s-style. In a spot that’s been empty for years, the “little boxer” adorning the windows has (finally!) been knocked out with hefty pizzas and vermouths that pack a punch. We owe this uppercut combo to Lakhdar Lakhdar-Hamina, who’s also the head coach at Malmö and Verigoud – and before that, Caffè al Dente and Gazzetta. That Friday night in a frenzied atmosphere reminiscent of Bushwick, perched on a bar stool we scoffed down three gigantic slices of pizza made with Belgian flour and dough proofed for 24 hours: an explosive slice of pepperoni, just like you’d get in NYC, a classic margherita with slightly rubbery mozzarella, and the daily special, which this time round featured mozzarella draped in anchovies, all devoured folded in half, as it should be. And on the side (for something slightly healthier), some crunchy coleslaw slathered in a light mayo, as well as some roasted carrots enhanced by one hell of a pistachio pesto – homemade of course. Bam! Like a knuckleduster to the jaw. // Jeanne Jaco

FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to a few natural wines (Anathème, a Gard red from Thierry Forestier at €6 a glass, or Bye Bye Bye!, a Puglia white from Petracavallo at €38 a bottle), there’s an amazing list of vermouths, including: an Italian white Del Professore (€7 for 60 ml), Franco-Catalan red from Sagí Taverna (€7.50), or a chardonnay Vinmouth from 4 Ever Wine (€10).

PRICE: Slices €4-6, whole pizzas €23-32, sides €5-10.