Ah, Belle Lurette! Forget the pretentious bistros with their chalkboard menus and make way for this spot, housed in what used to be Liesse, now given a new lease of life thanks to a duo with an innate sense of what makes a great dish – Antony Lauret (ex-Ötap and Gramm) and Rémi Leblanc (ex-Chaff in Paris). Time-worn wood, red banquettes, enamel signs, a custom-made pewter-topped bar… It could easily feel a bit touristy, but here it’s pure and simply comforting. As for the food: it’s bold, unfussy, generous and without bells and whistles. The day we went, we savored: crispy duck confit croquettes, all salty and decadent and served with a black garlic mayo that offered a subtle yet profound contrast; followed by a juicy veal hanger steak served rare and perfectly rested, with shallots, creamy mashed potato and a proper old-fashioned jus – rustically comforting! It’s authentic, it’s spot on, it’s beautiful. · Gordon Bleu

​​​​​FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that make no pretenses: Falling Rock, a white from Denis and Didier Berthollièr (€8.50 a glass), La Buvette, a ruby ​​red from Castelmaure (€27 a bottle), or a white Muscaris from Arthur Joskin (€56)… And a special mention for the Magma cider on tap (€3.80 for 120 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €9-13, mains €21-27, desserts €7-15.