Vieux-Nice remains his zip code of choice (Type 55, Le Bar des Oiseaux, Bistrot Antoine), but this time Armand Crespo is getting the fire started on the other side of the castle, near the port. His latest addition to the fold oozes hacienda-style charm (terracotta limewashed walls, earthenware vases) and crackles with flame-grilled, Latin-inspired cooking. The grill and oven are in the hands of two young chefs, Colombian Carlos Gomez and Italian Daniele Lamboglia, who know exactly how to play with heat. The day we went for lunch, sparks flew over: chargrilled artichoke with lardo di Colonnata cream; a sinfully good duck tataki with burnt corn espuma and tom yum sauce; a near-Dantesque John Dory fillet with braised and smoked julienned vegetables and a Thai-inspired sauce; flame-grilled octopus cozied up to turmeric carrot purée and cherry tomatoes; and a knockout dessert of shortbread, lemon cream and jelly, and Taggiasca olives – the only item on the menu not touched by flames. Also worth checking out: the crudos (sea bream ceviche with strawberry jus, beef tiradito with passion fruit) and intriguing oysters drizzled in flaming beef fat ignited in a flambadou. And because there’s no smoke without fire… just steps away, at 38 Rue Ségurane, is where Nietzsche began writing Thus Spoke Zarathustra in December 1883 – Zarathustra, the prophet of fire! · Alban Mont

FEELING THIRSTY? An Amaretto Sour (€12); Les Petits Clément, a crisp Côtes-du-Tarn white; Meraviglia, a vibrant orange wine by Valentina Passalacqua in Puglia; or a juicy Ardèche red from Château de la Selve (€7 a glass); not forgetting Moussaillon Blanc, a pét nat from L’Abri, vinified in Marseille, at €45 a bottle.

PRICE: Lunch menu (starter-main-dessert) €23, à la carte €45-66.