Coprin

The story begins like a fairy tale: a cabin in the Gaume woods, high up in the trees, and a couple living in the countryside (Olivia Duchêne and Adrien Cunnac, ex-Bon Bon) with an obsession for all things locavore and organic…. Since September 2023, Coprin has taken over one of the stilted wooden huts in the Mon Lit Dans L’Arbre estate and transformed it into a laid-back micro-gastronomical spot. In the dining room that’s a cross between a yurt and a barn, we ate all of the following that particular evening: punchy leeks vinaigrette with vichyssoise made from milk used to poach haddock; a stunning line-caught merling with carrots, pumpkin oil and citrus butter; quality Ardennes pork pluma, all delicious and juicy, with celery remoulade, sunchoke and black radish piccalilli; and a delightful ginger and citrus fruit flan with spruce tip sorbet. In short, this is good, clean local cuisine – here’s hoping the fairy tale never ends! // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a nice little organic-naturist proposition going on, which unfortunately is not up to par with the cuisine: a viré-clessé from the Domaine Rijckaert (€60 a bottle) and a saumur-champigny from La Folie LuCé winery (€48)… a few beers (€4.50 to €12), aperitifs (€12-13) and soft drinks (€3.50 to €6).

PRICE: Menus €55-69-85 (three, four and five courses), cheeses €11, Colonel alcoholic sorbet €6.