La Grappe d'Or

In 2022, after 13 years in the rural paradise of Torgny, Monia Aouini and Clément Petitjean moved their Michelin-starred restaurant to the outskirts of Tournai. But La Grappe D’Or 2.0, camped out in a big stone house along the main road with views of the surrounding prairies and fields, still plays the chic terroir-ist card. Once you get past the initial shock of the exaggerated decor (curved sofas encircling the tables, wiry clouds hanging from the ceiling), the hushed welcome, concerto of amuse-bouches and extensive menu choices all seem to scream: “Psst, you’ve entered fine dining land!” True to course, the day we went for lunch the generous four-course menu featured all of the following: a rather kitsch shaved beetroot shaped like a rose with gazpacho, fromage frais and sardine vitello; an exotic and creamy preparation of spelt wheat, octopus, vegetables and bisque; a main centered around veal, salsify, shiitake mushrooms and bearnaise sauce infused with marigolds; before a flurry of desserts, including a black olive brioche, praline cream and a pepper reduction, which didn’t taste like olives or peppers. Perhaps they just lost steam towards the end of the meal? // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? Dive joyfully into the chic naturalist bible of wines: Claire, a sauvignon from the Domaine Petit Clou Des Vents (€10 a glass), Madelon 2013, a Jura red from Jean-François Ganevat (€65 a bottle), or Qvevri 2012, a gewürtzraminer from Laurent Bannwarth (€75). Mocktails and cocktails (€15) and a hoppy selection of both traditional and more contemporary beers: barrel-aged Orval, beers from the Brasserie de la Mule (€5-8 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Lunch set menu €59 (3 courses), menus €89, €109 and €129 (4, 5 and 6 courses), food and wine pairings €26-59 (with or without alcohol).