Wanna abba-dabba-jabber Bollywood-style? A mere shake of the hip away from Fiskebar, Nikolaj Kovdal and Sen Kulanthaivelu have changed the record, trading in seafood for dahl. From the kitchen overlooking the dining room which kicks exotic clichés to the curb (a looooooong bar, a neon sign, booth seating), chef and Chettinad-native Dhinakaran Ramasamy fires out the good stuff: scrumptious medhu vadai, or fried lentil balls dunked in a coconut chutney; masala dosa like you’d get in the motherland – a rice and lentil pancake topped with urad beans, rice and fenugreek, plus a tomato and coconut chutney; comforting kothu parotta (sautéed shredded flatbread) with mutton curry, onions, curry leaves and seasonal veg; before some mouthwatering kesari – saffron semolina cake with nuts and dried fruit. Enjoy the lot to a backdrop of hip-hop beats blasting out of the speakers – so much for a Bollywood soundtrack! // Kiko Zushi
FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that doesn’t go OTT, simply hitting it spot on: Reserva, a Portugese white from the Esporão estate (€8.50 a glass, all the same), or a Puglian nero di Troia from Maree d’Ione (€28 a bottle), as well as a Catalan vermouth from Partida Creus (€7.50 a glass) and a house lemon verbena kombucha (€5).
PRICE: small plates €6-17, dessert €7.
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