In a remote corner of Westhoek, Bart Van Renterghem and Emily Bauden (ex-Willem Hiele) are riding on their high horses in this building dating from 1735, with an old-fashioned inn-like atmosphere (a gigantic mosaic tiled fireplace, an old wooden bistro bar, medieval chandeliers, tables made from stable doors). And my do they wow guests straight away with a duo of sourdough crackers shaped like playing cards; a (square-shaped!) smoked sausage with homemade mustard and toasted fennel seeds that pulls at the heart strings; half an egg with a slow-cooked yolk and grated egg yolk; before unveiling some excellent sushi Flemish-style – local potatoes rolled around smoked pork and topped with locally-grown quinoa. What came next? A great Wagnerian ride, made with regional products: a crazy good taco-pancake sautéed in leek oil and topped with maatjes, sautéed leeks and horseradish; brill doused in hollandaise and paired with a single plump white asparagus…. The knights of the round table better hold onto their hats: we’ve found the holy grail in Alveringem! // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Nature knows what it’s doing: Fleury Blanc de Noirs Champagne (€85 a bottle), 7 Sans, a red Bordeaux from the Château de Lisennes (€10 a glass), Sauvage, a Galician white from Constantina Sotelo (€44), Oude Gueuze beer from 3 Fonteinen (€12 for 375 ml).
PRICE: Tasting menus €70-95, food and wine pairings €40-57, food and beer pairings €25-35, non-alcoholic drink pairings €28-38.