September Lokaal is making its big comeback… it’s Harvest time! So, who’s at the helm? Stephen Akejelu (ex-August) and Adil Achahbar (ex-The Jane), two chefs who have taken the reins from their former mentor, Ann Van der Auwera. And what’s their thang? Cuisine that gets straight to the point, no messing about, but with a slight whimsical touch, like the shiso bearnaise sauce that sends our tastebuds doolally, set in a decor that hasn’t budged a bit – a chic maison de maître all dressed in white, with the subtle aroma of brown butter and yuzu gently wafting in the air. The day we went, we enjoyed: a cecina de León toast as an appetizer; sea bass tartare as fresh as the morning dew, with radish, apple and fermented plum for added zing; then, perfectly grilled asparagus with tempura shiso and tuna shavings that dance and swirl in the heat; fava bean, artichoke and lardo di colonata risotto, delicately bound together with egg yolk; and for the grand finale, rib eye steak served with a spring carrot purée. No kowtowing to the stars, just finesse and a tenacious soul. · Bobbi Rossi

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that changes regularly, either by the glass (€10-13): Branco de Talha Portuguese whites by Fita Preta and TO by Velich in Austria… Or by the bottle (€38-92), like La Soucarie, a Gaillac from the Domaine Les Têtes. Otherwise, a few homemade non-alcoholic sodas, like the blend of hibiscus, ginger and pineapple juice (€12).

PRICE: Set menus €48 (lunch; three courses) and €89 (five courses), food and drink pairings €36-48 (without or with alcohol).