Laurent Olives, a Frenchman from the southern city of Albi, has been reigning over the kitchen of this elegant bistro / take-away shop / fine foods shop ever since 2015, following his venture À la Ville. With his characteristic “French touch,” his paper menu sits proudly in the window display: the day we went, it featured button mushrooms stuffed with Roquefort in a mushroom jus, and a crêpe forestière filled with fungi and a creamy mushroom emulsion; veal blanquette and endive tarte tatin, one of Laurent’s signature dishes along with coq au vin; juicy and perfectly grilled veal chop with celeriac, preserved lemon and carrot purée; pearly white skate in a curried white wine sauce with shallots, paired with a vegetable flan and fingerling potatoes; and a trio of cheeses (reblochon, chaource and Roquefort) before a creamy lemon tartlet. On the counter, you’ll find baked pies (potato, reblochon and cumin) and tarts (Menton lemon), which can be taken to go. // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? A range of classic French wines is displayed on a shelf for you to choose from – La Fourchaume, a Chablis premier cru from Jean-Claude and Romain Bessin (€57 a bottle) or Les Lanes, a Corbières red from the Château La Baronne (€37) – and, by the glass, Le Champs des Lys, a Côtes-de-Thongue from the Domaine La Croix Belle (€7.50) or Cuvée des Galetes, a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Vignerons d’Estézargues (€6).

PRICE: À la carte €39-49.