September

In the Académie des Beaux-Arts neighborhood, there’s a house – or rather, a former pastry shop to be precise – with skillfully decorated and chic bourgeois interiors. And then there’s Ana Van der Auwera, a culinary stylist and the chef at September, which she co-runs with her husband Koen De Ceuleneer and her daughter Pilar, with support from local farmers who supply her with ingredients. On the menu of this farm-to-table restaurant: yuzu labneh and smoked labneh, plus black tahini and dukkah, decorated with garlic blossoms and cornflowers, all served with flatbread sprinkled with taggiasche olive powder; palourde clams with katsuobushi and black lime; octopus cooked in a red wine sauce and served with faro seasoned with fragrant sea buckthorn berries and oregano; and a vegetarian version of the tasting menu, featuring potatoes, leeks, sea lettuce and lovage; white and green asparagus with wild garlic and hijiki seaweed; Sardinian ricotta, fennel, sea lavender, pecorino, capers with sourdough focaccia… and other small roasted, smoked or infused plant-based marvels. // Juno Madre

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic cuisine calls for natural wines: Moraza 4 Caminos, an elegant Spanish orange wine (€11 a glass, €55 a bottle), an Alsatian Riesling from the Domaine Rohrer (€57), or a red Bergerac from the Château Les Donats (€50). Plus cocktails like the Miyako-Bijin made with sake, yuzu, sparkling wine, lemon zest and dried rose buds (€9.50).
PRICE: Tasting menu €68 or €60 (for the vegetarian verison).