Kenny Burssens and Wendy Van den Bergh will never wilt away! Packed like sardines around the counter, the open kitchen with its old-fashioned rotisserie offers a breathtaking view of the serious cuts of meat and whole fish swirling around on the spit. After a mouthwatering Irish Mor oyster, the gravadlax with Joppiesaus (a mustardy mayonnaise that’s a staple of Dutch fritkots) sets the tone. Here, eating is a serious business, but no one seems to take themselves too seriously: a pig’s trotter croque-monsieur comes before the turbot with beurre blanc sauce and clams to share, before keeping things carnivorous with homemade hare pâté, pasta with pancetta (finished off in a Parmesan wheel that sits at the end of the bar!) and a mythical Holstein ribeye steak with a bone marrow, mustard and anchovy butter. The bistro-style desserts don’t disappoint either: vanilla Muscat sabayon, or chocolate cake with salted peanuts and caramel. // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? Unlimited water (€5) and a choice of foreign wines: Spätburgunder, a German red from August Kesseler (€10 a glass), or Patinegro, a Spanish white from Bodegas Barbadillo (€45 a bottle).

PRICE: Menu €54-91.