After meeting at the legendary Brasserie des Voirons in Lucinges, Benjamin Breton and Pierre Lelièvre (both of whom used to work at Le Fiskebar in Geneva) decided to open up their dream inn, located just a few kilometers away from the Swiss border. On one side, you’ll find a cozy bistro with lots of woodwork and wine-colored banquettes where you can chill with friends; on the other, a fine dining spot with clean lines and soft seats, where a graphically pleasing and precise seven-course tasting menu is served: smoked beetroot and shio koji beurre blanc sauce; lake trout killed ikejime-style, celery root with vin jaune and lovage; Breton blue lobster, seaweed from Le Croisic and Chartreuse; lamb from the Ferme de Clavisy… But the night we went, we opted for the bistro side of things, which was frankly just as impressive as its big brother: served à la carte, there was braised broccoli over a mound of fresh herbs (parsley, mint, dill, etc.) and a luscious tonnato sauce; swordfish steak from Le Grau-du-Roi, mi-cuit and glazed in a buttery hazelnut sabayon and a mussel reduction; braised beef cheeks so tender they could be eaten with a spoon, with a perfectly made red wine sauce and root vegetables (sunchokes, salsify); before some majestic Ethiopian coffee ice cream and crushed Piedmont hazelnuts for dessert. // Gwen Jacquère
FEELING THIRSTY? : A beautiful selection of natural wines… with Geneva prices: I Vicini, a delicate Savoie white favorita from Jean-Yves Péron (€13 a glass!), Monsieur Gringet, an incisive Savoie white from the Domaine Belluard (€120 a bottle), a classy moulin-à-vent from Yvon Métras (€89), and Les Binardes 2018, an opulent Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Stéphan (€170).
PRICE: : Set menu €26-31 (weekday lunch), and €59 (dinner), à la carte €46-60 at the bistro; tasting menu €95 at the fine dining restaurant.
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