For (too many) years now, Le Chabanais has escaped Le Fooding’s radar… No more! The other night, seated under the teal arches of this cave à manger run by Mina Fouquet (a former banker) and Manu Avesque (who worked as a chef under Christian Constant), we gobbled up a series of unfussy small plates: mullet sashimi marinated in an intense xipister sauce made with garlic, vinegar and piment d’Espelette; delicious Morteau sausage atop a lentil salad with pickled onions; a magnificent half-pie filled with layers of potato and melted cheddar, all intensified by an incredible jus de viande; pata negra pork cheeks in a graceful corn cream with feta and pickled cherries; before a perfect chocolate lava cake served with mint ice cream. // Antoine Antoine

FEELING THIRSTY? Around 60 natural wines for all budgets: a Tuscan Sangiovese Montesecondo (€5 a glass), a Drôme red blend from Rémi Pouizin (€20 a bottle), Sava Sol, a rare Menu Pineau from Julien Courtois (€65), selected from some serious contenders (Frères Soulier, Selosse, Métras, Gangloff…), so you leave singing La Chabanaise!
PRICE: Small plates €5-15.