A Neapolitan pizzeria run by Americans, tucked beneath a towering holly tree in a small medieval village in the heart of Southwest France – sounds improbable? All the better. This new address is the fulfilment of a long-held dream for Keith Manship, stationed at the wood-fired oven, and Petrea Davis, holding court front of house, after swapping a career in fashion and designing beautiful shoes for flour dusted hands and pizza peels. On the menu that night: pure dolce vita, courtesy of plump, cloud-like pizzas emerging blistered from the oven. In order of appearance: a classic Margherita to get things started; followed by a rebel number topped with ‘nduja, buffalo mozzarella and a decadent drizzle of maple syrup; and for the finale, a globetrotting beauty with yellow datterini tomatoes, fior di latte, anchovies, capers and lemon zest. And dessert is no afterthought: a textbook tiramisu with plenty of substance, which already had us plotting a return visit to try its mischievous alter ego, the tiramiSuze … spiked with Suze, of course, that unmistakably bitter French liquor. We’ve long had a soft spot for slightly punk American chefs with a poetic streak. Are we ready for their latest pizza-fueled metamorphosis? Yes. Yes, we are! · Colin Sullivan

FEELING THIRSTY? A short but sharply curated lineup of natural wines in eveyr shade: Press Nocturne, a red from La Petite Foulée (€6 a glass), ZacMau, a white from Causses Marines (€34 a bottle) or Les Terroirists, an orange wine from Domaine Plageoles (€36). There are also locally brewed beers from Brasserie Belier (€5 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €3-7, pizzas €9-17, desserts €9-17.