It took serious heart – and serious wine – to pull this off. Winemaker Grégoire Aubrun (Domaine Le Chapitre) and neo-chef Anthony Cortijo (ex-L’Œuf de Coq in Lavaur and Cabanon Sauvage in Puycelsi) poured both into the top-to-bottom makeover of this old village carpentry workshop, now reborn as a no-frills bistro refuge with exposed stone walls, an open kitchen, wooden tables, old school chairs and leftover Christmas string lights. The duo keeps things honest with unpretentious seasonal cooking shaped by local organic producers (Valentin Herin, Pierre Carles, Pierre Gineste…) and a faultless lineup of good, clean French wines at affordable prices: Simon Rouillard, Lise and Bertrand Jousset, Thomas Bouet and the Plageoles estate. · Hector Tandoor

Ate: Elegant asparagus with mussels escabeche and smoked yogurt; dolma-style stuffed chard leaves over ajo blanco; and a chef-y dessert of lemon cream with celery sorbet and citrus powder.

Price: Set menus €26-30.