At Lou Bourdié (which means “the farmer” in the local patois), Monique Valette runs this rustic inn like a rock star (exposed rafters and stone walls, a grandfather clock, a large fireplace), tucked away on the Causse du Quercy. Inspired by recipes from her grandmother and great-grandmother, her decadent €32 menu brings together ingredients from local farms (La Borie du Moulin in Lalbenque and Pécanot in Varaire): mushroom and onion velouté served in a soup tureen; a gourmet salad with smoked duck breast and homemade duck liver pâté; classic veal paupiettes with a truffle sauce, sautéed potatoes, zucchini gratin and Tarbes beans cooked with pork rind; before her famous homemade pastis cake that would leave even Cyril Lignac speechless! As for the drinks, there’s an Aubrac lager from the Brasserie d’Olt (€4 for 330 ml) and some impressive wines: Les Agudes, a biodynamic VDF from Fabien Jouves (€6 a glass), a Malbec-Merlot blend from Le Clos La Coutale (€24 a bottle), an organic Lot VDP from Auzonne in the Perch (€18). FYI – there are hearty options for hikers as well: vegetable soup (€4), country ham plates (€8), onion and potato omelets (€9.50), etc. Menus €18 (weekday lunch) and €32 (Friday dinner and Sunday), truffles €55 (in season). // P.L.