La Racine et la Moelle

  • Date
  • share

After training in some of the most respectable Parisian establishments (La Cave de l’Insolite, Le Pantruche), chef Julie Dissais migrated to the land of Champollion in 2018. In this former raclette dive that’s been given a makeover (an untreated wood bar, packed tables, an open kitchen), she unveils inspired plates made using excellent local ingredients. The day we went for lunch simply went to prove it: a runny oeuf meurette in a red wine sauce with dashi, mushrooms, smoked bacon, croutons, cilantro and toasted peanuts; perfectly roasted Aveyron suckling pig with a new potato fricassee, slow-roasted carrots and a jus de viande infused with thyme and lemon; before a divine dark chocolate ganache paired with candied kumquat, a mango/passion fruit coulis, coffee streusel and bread ice cream – yum! // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines selected by Julie’s partner, the Irishman Michael McLean: a Cadurcien red from Parlange et Illouz (€9 a glass), a Saumur blanc from Lydie and Thierry Chancelle (€25 a bottle), a Cairanne red from the Domaine Richaud (€50)… Another option is the Figeacoise beer, La Barrou’deuse (€5 for 330 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €33-41.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.