La Racine et la Moelle

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After training in some of the most respectable Parisian establishments (La Cave de l’Insolite, Le Pantruche), chef Julie Dissais migrated to the land of Champollion in 2018. In this former raclette dive that’s been given a makeover (an untreated wood bar, packed tables, an open kitchen), she unveils inspired plates made using excellent local ingredients. The day we went for lunch simply went to prove it: a runny oeuf meurette in a red wine sauce with dashi, mushrooms, smoked bacon, croutons, cilantro and toasted peanuts; perfectly roasted Aveyron suckling pig with a new potato fricassee, slow-roasted carrots and a jus de viande infused with thyme and lemon; before a divine dark chocolate ganache paired with candied kumquat, a mango/passion fruit coulis, coffee streusel and bread ice cream – yum! // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention wines selected by Julie’s partner, the Irishman Michael McLean: a Cadurcien red from Parlange et Illouz (€9 a glass), a Saumur blanc from Lydie and Thierry Chancelle (€25 a bottle), a Cairanne red from the Domaine Richaud (€50)… Another option is the Figeacoise beer, La Barrou’deuse (€5 for 330 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €33-41.

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