“Ceci n’est pas un restaurant.” That’s the greeting written around the doorbell of this 1920s building, with no sign out front and heavy curtains drawn tight, tucked along an unglamorous boulevard in Berchem. This chic gastronomic hideout from Gino Lemmens (in the kitchen) and Katja Kulakova’s (front of house) plays things cool and under the radar, despite a waiting list as long as your arm. On the tables: Verilin tablecloths and napkins made in Kortrijk (artistically crinkled, naturally, like the curtains), a tiny minimalist vase and old-fashioned silver cutlery worthy of your grandma’s best drawer. What a lovely, cozy feeling. And on the plates? Only beautiful things. Take the Saturday night we went… After the mouthwatering amuse-bouches, the tasting menu rolled out as follows: spritely sea bass tartare with sour cream, pickled cucumber and seaweed sauce; seared scallops with white asparagus, lobster and caper cream; irresistible confit egg yolk with spring peas and mature cheese; a stunning lamb dish with spinach and five-spice sauce; then pigeon in two services – a real showstopper! – before a sweet, smooth finish with iced mascarpone, lemon curd, rhubarb and praline. Ceci n’est pas un restaurant? No. It’s much better · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry

FEELING THIRSTY? A large, elegant wine list dotted with delicious natural beauties: Triple Zero, a pét nat from Jacky Blot in the Loire (€68 a bottle), a poulsard from Lulu Vignerons in the Jura (€60), or, if you’re thinking of going all out, a vin jaune from the legendary Jacques Puffeney (€293). Alternatively, there’s a thoughtful selection of Belgian beers and spirits, unless you’re down for the unlimited water option (€8 per person).

PRICE: Set menus €55-70 (lunch), €90 (Tuesday to Thursday, lunch and dinner) and €110; food and drink pairings €18-45 (with or without alcohol).