Luca Fabozzi didn’t need a sourdough trend to teach him that dough should be stretched like a caress, and not like revenge. After graduating with flying (tri)colors from the legendary pizza academy in Naples, Luca has mastered the classics when it comes to the art of dough: from calibrated humidity levels and controlled fermentation, to the magic ingredient itself – licoli, or liquid sourdough, for those in the know, which is now also the name of his first, solo venture. His time as guest star at food events is over (except at Café Ernst), because now he reigns over his very own kingdom, complete with a glowing wood-fired oven and a V-shaped counter designed by Viktor Van Puyvelde, made for eyeballing, chatting and salivating in full-on pizza envy. Watch the pizzaiolo at work, strike up conversation with diners to your side, and then – bam! An Irish Mór oyster lands on the table, cleansing the taste buds before the pizza rounds fire their way out. The signature? Slow-roasted cherry tomatoes, salty anchovies, burnt citrus jelly and yuzu sesame seeds. The seasonal? Fior di latte, ricotta, mortadella, baby zucchini and ground pistachio. And to finish on a sweet note, an ultra-light cannolo stuffed with lemony ricotta – created by the house’s Belgian-Sicilian cousins over at Cannolo. · Coco Bianca

FEELING THIRSTY? A small selection of natural wines, including a white Buca (€8 a glass) and Indisciplinato 2022, an orange wine aged in amphorae by the Domaine San Marcello (€60 a bottle). Otherwise, there’s classic lemon or orange San Pellegrino (€3.50), Peroni (€4) and limoncello (€5), of course.

PRICE: Starters €6-17, pizzas €10-32, desserts €7.50-8.