Paul Du Bois De Maquillé (ex-Le Servan, Septime, Papillon and Le Reich) returns to Toulouse, reuniting with his brother Vincent (also trained at Le Servan) to open their own restaurant – a heartfelt tribute to their native Basque Country (think red shutters – naturally, burgundy paneling, coppery pink brickwork). In the kitchen, Paul puts his formidable CV to work, walking a fine line between retro bistro comfort and neo-gastronomic flair. That lunchtime: an enchanting butternut squash velouté topped with a creamy smoky bacon espuma, green oil, chervil and pumpkin seeds; followed by a deeply satisfying stuffed cabbage filled with sausage meat and carrot, slicked with a meaty jus, a dazzle of mint and crowned with a fried cabbage leaf; followed by a dark chocolate tartlet with salted caramel, fromage blanc and Comice pear. Come evening, the tasting menu leans a touch more ambitious while staying firmly in regional tradition: shallot and chorizo ravioli in rosemary butter; sea bass ceviche with Adour kiwi and broccoli rabe; Basque corn-fed chicken with carrots and a creamy Ossau-Iraty sauce. Bayonne and Toulouse have never felt so close! · Daisy Poppy

FEELING THIRSTY? A contemporary, natural-leaning wine list mixing familiar names and new discoveries: La Petite Côte, a chardonnay from Yves Duport (€6 a glass), Franquette!, a Languedoc syrah from Mylène Bru (€7) and Lurumea, a red Irouléguy from Domaine Bordatto (€37 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus €24-28 (lunch), tasting menu €62, wine pairing €35 (dinner; five courses), sharing plates €8-11, appetizers €11-13, mains €22-28 and €16 (kids’ menu), desserts €11-12.