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After training at La Blanche, a French culinary institution in Tokyo, the brilliant Hitoshi Araki then moved on to cook under Yannick Delpech in Colomiers after falling back, like a rōnin, to the Les Carmes neighborhood in Toulouse. The night we went, in his small spot with midnight blue paneling, cushioned banquettes and Edison light bulbs, we let the “small” four-course menu (€38) cast its spell on us. In order of appearance: delicate glazed pork belly with pickled red onion for the prelude; lovely siphoned cauliflower with al dente cauliflower florets, sheltered by a tomato water jelly; a superb roasted monkfish fillet paired with baby artichokes – both grilled and puréed – and a porcini and button mushroom sauce; lamb chops with a lovely root vegetable soup – beets, multicolored radishes, carrots, sunchokes; before a pavlova combining meringue, a fig brunoise and quartered figs, plus a rich chocolate mousse. // M.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? The wine menu, selected by Yuko Araki and written out on the blackboard, oscillates between natural and conventional wines: a Muscadet from the Domaine de La Pépière (€7 a glass), a Marcillac red from the Domaine du Cros (€32 a bottle), a Pouilly-Fumé Arrêt Buffatte (€36), Cuvée H, an Hérault red from Le Clos de la Barthassade (€35), a Pommard from the Domaine Georges Lignier (€58)…

PRICE: Menus €18 and €30 (lunch), €38 and €50 (dinner).

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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