Les Têtes d'Ail

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At this cleverly tinkered-together bistro (whitewashed bricks, bare lightbulbs, copper and chipboard touches), Simon Fetia (ex-En pleine nature in Quint-Fonsegrives) sends out oodles of joy for less than a blue bank note. That afternoon on the menu of festivities: a refreshing appetizer of chilled pea soup with lemony whipped cream, herring espuma and trout roe; a superb veal shoulder stuffed with herbs – or a brilliant chunk of roasted cod with mashed potatoes and savory espuma; before a cocoa-peanut cookie with chocolate sauce, oak milk ice cream and whipped cream, for the ultra-comforting dessert. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Luberon red from the Domaine Le Novi (€5 a glass), a Côtes-Catalanes white from Olivier Pithon (€42 a bottle) or a more unexpected Sauvage, a Galician orange wine Constantina Sotelo (€47) and Kalkundkiesel, an Austrian red from Claus Preisinger (€44)… or an IPA from the French Brasseurs (€6.50 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Menus €20 (lunch) and €32 (dinner).

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