For a second there, you could almost believe it’s 1958… Nearly seventy years on, Maritime still lives up to its name, serving authentic, seafaring dishes on crisp, white tablecloths. Since taking the helm in 2024, Helena De Ridder and Serge Verboven (also behind Marcel and Au Vieux Port) have kept the ship on its steady course, while the ever-faithful maître d’, Joan Gorremans (a true mainstay), continues to bring out all the classics: XXL grey shrimp croquettes served with a revisited rouille; classic mussels, steaming hot and Antwerp-style (white wine, celery, fennel); lobster in all its glorious variations (Thai-style, Armorican-style…); and sole meunière swimming in melted butter, exactly as it should be. And to finish? Authentic, old-school desserts done right, like chocolate mousse, crème brûlée and Dame Blanche ice cream sundae. A little slice of culinary heritage, generously sauced and with nothing left to prove. · Saffron Edge

FEELING THIRSTY? Sommelier Jens De Ridder oversees a cellar of around 200 classic wines, which he pours into Grassl and Spiegelau glasses: a Burgundy chardonnay from Domaine Michelot (€7 a glass), a 2019 rioja Reserva from Bodegas Muga (€49 a bottle) and brut champagne from Pierre Gimonnet (€65).

PRICE: Appetizers €16-28, mains €30-50, desserts €12-14.