What a find! Ever since Nono Nagao and Nicolas Monin took over this modest, homely shokudo eatery (high tables, a brick-fronted counter, screen-printed kakemonos), they’ve been quietly enchanting locals and suited-up office workers alike with their irresistible teishokus set meals. On a picturesque procession of small plates, the owner (who used to work at Takara and Kanadé in Paris) puts her own stamp on izakaya classics. Take the other day at lunch, alongside the quintessential bowl of white rice and miso soup, we happily grazed in no particular order: an addictive moyashi (bean sprouts) salad coiffed with grated garlic glistening in sesame oil; saba no misoni, tender mackerel chunks simmered with ginger in a harmonious blend of white and red miso; and an indulgent chicken nanban, karaage-style chicken drenched in sweet-and-sour shoyu and finished with a dollop of tartar sauce. Before plunging our spoons into a black sesame pudding, devoured while plotting our return for the sautéed shiitake mushrooms or the glazed eel donburi reserved for the weekend menu. · Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? Keep it traditional with sencha or hojicha tea (€4), a glass of umeshu (€6) or a flask of dry Nihonshu Ooyama sake (€26 for 300 ml).

PRICE: Appetizers €5-9.50, mains €16-23, desserts €6-8.