Blink and you’ll still see the ultramarine-blue storefront, glowing just meters from the train station. It’s here that wine merchant Alexis Heugas, also owner of La Cave Convention in Paris’ 15th arrondissement, sells his carefully selected natural wines to discerning locals. On closer inspection, the line-up is near flawless: Jérémy Recchione, Benoît Ente and Jérémy Carteret in Burgundy; Christine Vernay and Vincent Ruiz in the Rhône Valley; Mëralla in Alsace; and Clos du Jaugueyron in Bordeaux. It’s a vibrant, ever-evolving selection, with new vintages regularly landing, like Tapis Rouge, a crisp pinot noir from La Petite Empreinte (€34.90 a bottle) or Mirage, a smooth skin-contact white from Terres d’Imaginaire (€23.80). There’s also a sharp edit of French spirits (including Twelve Whisky Aventurine at €73 a bottle and Sab’s gin at €49), plus a mini fine-foods corner stacked with smart Frenchie snacks – Armagnac pork pâté from Les Conservistes (€5.20 for 130 grams) and canned chimichurri octopus from Pirate Cannerie (€14.90 for 140 grams). · Jackie Pépite

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Chapter I from Domaine Les Quatre Piliers, a Touraine sauvignon blanc that’s all elegance and effortless drinkability (€28.20).