Proudly camped out behind the Eiffel Tower, hoisting up its flours like flags and its doughs like manifestos, a rebel bakery is putting bread back at the center of the table. Its commandante, Anthony Cuguillere – a former bank fraud investigator turned sourdough activist – kneads his loaves out in the open, for all to see. This bold, performative streak stands in sharp contrast to this prim corner of Paris, where neatly ironed tablecloths often conceal unspeakable secrets. Here, bread raises its fist in solidarity! Loaves emerge from the oven all day long and are displayed like still life paintings: you won’t find any baguettes made with heavily processed white flour, just mouthwatering loaves fermented for 24 hours made from rustic, organic flours. Think bread made with toasted corn or chestnut flour, maple syrup or lemon, pain brié… And for an afternoon snack? Dense chocolate muffins, buttery brioche vendéenne, gingerbread and cramiques that’ll have you weak in the knees. · Lasri Racha

THE HIDDEN GEM: The honey bread with its golden crust, drizzled with a spoonful of this delicate nectar right before baking. Perfect for both sweet or sweet-and-savory tartines (€22/kg).