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Ever since 2007, the La Motte-Picquet neighborhood has been loving this discreet spot (a white tiled kitchen-atelier, mid-century modern chairs, 1950s tableware, opaline glass suspension lamps) where Kim Hong-sung tries not to suffer the comparison to cheap Korean BBQ joints and other soulless temples to bimbimbap. Selected from the mouthwatering menu printed on school graph paper, the night we went: chubby mandoo (pan-fried dumplings with pork and celery); fiery kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew with pork belly and tofu) that tickles the palate without setting it ablaze; before an excellent black sesame panna cotta or a scoop of yuzu sorbet. // J.F.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a very short selection of wine that changes regularly – a white Anjou from the Domaine des Grandes Vignes or a red Anjou Topette à Lundi (€5 a glass) or a natural Jura, Les Pieds sur Terre, from Valentin Morel (€41 a bottle). There are lots of organic Korean rice wines too, like bekseju (sweet flavored rice wine, €19 a bottle), buja makgeoli (creamy sweet potato rice wine, €15) or hwayo (rice whiskey, €75).

PRICE: Set menus €14-21 (weekday lunch), à la carte €29-47.

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