A voyage in unknown lands! This deserted corner of the 15th arrondissement has been hiding a true gem from Abyssinia for nearly 20 years now, where you receive a warm welcome as if you were entering somebody’s private home (timeworn woven rattan furniture, portraits of Ethiopian figures, jazz from back home). Before digging in, make sure your hands are clean, because instead of utensils, you use the elastic levain bread to scoop up all kinds of good things – stewed spinach, beets, split peas and beans, red lentil ragù, hard-boiled eggs in a spicy sauce, aib (a fresh cheese), grilled beef with green chilies and onions, saucy chicken, grilled mutton… Another unmissable option is the kitfo, a steak tartare with diced red chilies and unfamiliar spices – like the kororima, which is similar to cardamom. // Albert Gredinbar

FEELING THIRSTY? A good Ethiopian St. George lager (€5 for 330 ml), tedj (a mead popular in the Horn of Africa, €3 a glass) and good java (€3).
PRICE: Plates €15-17.