La Fontaine de Mars

A blast from the past: checkered tablecloths, waiters in crisp white uniforms, proper silverware… Following in the footsteps of Obama (who came in 2009), Yankee tourists, neighborhood white-collar workers and Macronite darlings come here for a conservative mouthful. So, was is better in the past? The menu answers for itself! The day we went: a presidential tête de veau salad, with (Lee Harvey) Roseval potatoes (€15); juicy roasted free-range chicken with mmmmmashed potatoes, worthy of a Michel Drucker-style Sunday lunch (€23); before a floating island covered in pralines (€11). And don’t forget to check out the wine collection: a Brouilly from the Château de Corcelles (€5.50 a glass), a Moulin-à-Vent from the Domaine des Terres Dorées (€35 a bottle) or a Pouilly-Fuissé from Dominique Cornin (€58). Dish of the day €23, à la carte €39-99. // M.J.-D.