restaurant

Les Marches

Les Marches (Paris)

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At Les Marches, Smart cars have replaced trucks and the starlets of fashion week have taken over from the truckers of yesteryear… Welcome to Stéphane and Jérôme Dumant’s museum-like restaurant (timeless tiling, checkered tablecloths), where the red and blue “Les Routiers” logo still hangs on the wall. Seated on faux-leather benches the other day at lunch, elegant ladies and lawyers from the Alma neighborhood dug into the dishes of the day (an omelet with porcini mushrooms and roasted duck breast with thyme and honey, plus sweet potato purée and rice). We ordered from the à la carte selection: an ever-fashionable frisée salad with lardons, a perfectly poached egg and a mustardy vinaigrette; delicious steak au poivre with matchstick fries; an excellent cheese plate (goat cheese, camembert, gouda) served with plum jam; before French toast like a French grandma would make, served with a baked apple. Otherwise, there’s a selection of classic dishes to choose from: sausage in brioche like you’d get in Lyon, artichoke with vinaigrette, a rib-eye steak with maître-d’hôtel butter, veal blanquette with chanterelles, tarte Tatin, cream puffs… Not to mention the roast chicken on the weekends (at lunch). // F.P. & S.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Côtes-de-Bordeaux red from the Château Latour Camblanes (€7 a glass), a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Commanderie de Peyrassol (€9), a Sancerre white from the Domaine Delaporte (€36 a bottle)…

PRICE: Dish of the day €16, à la carte €24-41.

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