Les Marches

At Les Marches, Smart cars have replaced trucks and the starlets of fashion week have taken over from the truckers of yesteryear… Welcome to Stéphane and Jérôme Dumant’s museum-like restaurant (timeless tiling, checkered tablecloths, old-fashioned menus), where the red and blue “Les Routiers” logo still hangs on the wall. Seated on the big terrace saddled up against the Palais de Tokyo, crushed by the heat that could melt the Eiffel Tower, the crisp red wine flowed freely and the cold picnic-style dishes beat out the house classics (roast chicken, steak with morel mushrooms, steak au poivre…). Nevertheless, we couldn’t resist the very appealing poached egg with morel mushrooms and croutons, followed by a refreshing roast beef carpaccio served with a generous portion of beautiful light mayonnaise, paired with a cold potato, haricots verts and cherry tomato salad. But we’ll be back when the weather is more forgiving, if only to try the crayfish tails with celery and Granny smith apple rémoulade; the veal kidneys with Dijon mustard sauce; and the pink praline floating island. // Albert Gredinbar

FEELING THIRSTY? Classic options: a Côtes-de-Brouilly from the Château Thivin (€9 a glass), an Haut-Médoc from the Château Lagrave (€35 a bottle), a Sancerre white produced by Lucien Crochet (€46), a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Domaine de la Croix (€37)…

PRICE: Prix-fixe menu €20 (lunch), à la carte €28-56.