In the heart of the Triangle d’Or neighborhood filled with quite a few old-fashioned bistros and fine dining restaurants, the sizzling saucers of chef Nobutaka Hayashi (ex-Udon Jubey on Rue Sainte-Anne) feel somewhat out of this world. In this izakaya designed by Alexandre Schrepfer and Chiaki Yatasui, take your choice of ambiances: one of the two magnificent wooden alcoves for five guests, with sleek lines and dim lighting, or the big back room with teal banquettes and tightly-squeezed-together tables. That’s where, for lunch, we devoured some incredible karaage, tender stewed pork belly, turnips and haricots verts (which were not exactly in season), or even an excellent shaved Chinese cabbage marinated with kombu. All that before the famous bowls of udon noodles, made in house using dough rested for 24 hours. We tried the Niku version which came with thinly sliced beef, fresh ginger, kombu and shiitake mushrooms swimming around in a slightly disappointing dashi broth. And for dessert, a classic ice cream mochi or the rarer dorayaki, those delicious pancakes stuffed with azuki bean paste. // Gwen Jacquère 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Lackluster yet quite expensive wines see us opting for a jasmine tea (€6), umeshu (plum liqueur, €8 for 40 ml) or Kirin beer (€9 for a pint, though!). 
PRICE: : Appetizers €5-26, udon €14.50 to €24, donburi €18-24, desserts €7-9.