Doc Ryuji Teshima and his surgical team perform miracles in this kitchen theatre (immaculate white walls, starched tablecloths)! The center of operations? A fascinating open-heart kitchen, from which a superb “small” tasting menu (€60) sprung forth the day we went for lunch, prepared with scalpel-like precision in four impressive steps: diaphanous daikon radish cannelloni wrapped around a nugget of Breton lobster, moistened by a powerful wild herb nectar; a muscular medallion of roasted monkfish and a triple dose of fennel (as an emulsion, shaved and as a gratin) doused in a prodigious clam broth galvanized with finger lime; the chef’s flagship dish of pullet bronzed on the BBQ, dressed with salsify (as a mousseline and pan-fried), hay espuma and a chicken broth… which was made more dense, rich and creamy by the addition of a marinated egg yolk! Before an incredible Breton-style dessert prepared by the pastry chef Yuki Hayato: slivers of caramelized apple covered in a buckwheat mousse and ice cream. A hugely enjoyable moment, made even better by the particularly attentive staff. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Pages and pages of great wines: a Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron (€18 a glass), a Burgundy red from the Domaine Dufouleur (€70 a bottle), a Puligny-Montrachet from the Domaine Leflaive (€260)…

PRICE: Tasting menus €60 and €85 (lunch) and €120.