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© Rina Nurra

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Doc Ryuji Teshima and his surgical team perform miracles in this kitchen theatre (immaculate white walls, starched tablecloths)! The center of operations? A fascinating open-heart kitchen, from which a superb “small” tasting menu (€60) sprung forth the day we went for lunch, prepared with scalpel-like precision in four impressive steps: diaphanous daikon radish cannelloni wrapped around a nugget of Breton lobster, moistened by a powerful wild herb nectar; a muscular medallion of roasted monkfish and a triple dose of fennel (as an emulsion, shaved and as a gratin) doused in a prodigious clam broth galvanized with finger lime; the chef’s flagship dish of pullet bronzed on the BBQ, dressed with salsify (as a mousseline and pan-fried), hay espuma and a chicken broth… which was made more dense, rich and creamy by the addition of a marinated egg yolk! Before an incredible Breton-style dessert prepared by the pastry chef Yuki Hayato: slivers of caramelized apple covered in a buckwheat mousse and ice cream. A hugely enjoyable moment, made even better by the particularly attentive staff. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Pages and pages of great wines: a Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron (€18 a glass), a Burgundy red from the Domaine Dufouleur (€70 a bottle), a Puligny-Montrachet from the Domaine Leflaive (€260)…

PRICE: Tasting menus €60 and €85 (lunch) and €120.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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