Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Nippo-maniacs should think twice: Ryuji Teshima, the fine Japanese chef who worked most notably at In de Wulf (Belgium) and Passage 53 (Paris, 2nd arrondissement), plays a Francophone tune here! Expect competition-worthy beasts (Breton lobster, meat from Benoît Quéru, vegetables from Annie Bertin…), real reductions and surgical precision… The other day at lunch, in a space with naked stone walls and immaculate décor by Shinku Noda, the €60 menu electrified our palates: sharpen your taste buds with baby leeks licked by the flames of binchotan charcoal and topped with grated bottarga; a lustful spelt risotto with chanterelles and salmon roe, all lit up by an incredible shellfish jus; a very fresh fillet of cod from the Finistère, with steamed clams tucked into a fond de volaille and mellowed out by dill oil; tender suckling veal chops whipped up by a powerful sherry sauce, spring vegetables (Roscoff onions, turnips and miniature carrots); before a very graphic chocolate tart with salted caramel for the not-too-sweet dessert by pastry chef Yuki Hayato. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a plethoric menu where you can dig up some real gems (like the splendid Cheverny white, La Haute Pinglerie, from the Domaine des Huards at €55 a bottle) alongside the grands crus (including a Chambolle-Musigny premier cru, Les Amoureuses, from the Domaine Mugnier at €800!), unless you’d rather opt for one of the 26 wines served by the glass: Dagueneau, Dauvissat, Chidaine… from €14 to €60!
PRICE: Menus €6-85 (lunch) and €120 (dinner).