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Obonobo

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Watch out, the Gorilla has its mitts on the wine! Owners of the fabulous bistro Gorille on Rue des Dames, chef Marc Cordonnier and sommelier Louis Langevin have expanded their personal savannah with this wine shop with pale green walls and a chestnut wood standing table. The duo stockpile their exceptional natural wines there, which you can pop open in house or take to go, featuring vintages from friends (De Moor, Jousset, Bobinet…) along with impressive finds, like Ô Tricotée, an Ardèche syrah-viognier blend by Maud Adnot (€18), Barberine, a macerated clairette from the Hérault winery Mada (€30) or the otherworldly Widr, a combo of hard cider from Cyril Zangs and wine from Andréa Calek (€18). And since Gorille is located nearby, the nibbles are always spot-on, with small plates like burrata with olive caramel, leeks in sauce gribiche or smoked herring, and beautiful cuts of meat to share (veal sweetbreads, Auvergne pork chops, etc.). // Thomas Jossin 

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: En Avant Doute, a very fruity Ardèche grenache vinified by Jérôme Jouret (€16), the chef’s cousin. 

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