Anyone who knows Athens will not be surprised to see the city’s cool Plaka neighborhood landing in the Batignolles quarter. And the man responsible? Dimitri Alexopoulos, a finance industry runaway who recreates a bit of home in this handsome shop with terrazzo floors, marble counters and a windowed kitchen – from where Ferdinandos Verros fills the deli counter with Hellenic beauties: fresh sardines marinated in vinegar and lemon, moussaka that doesn’t mess about, slow-cooked octopus salad, brownie fully loaded with Peloponnese olive oil… Plus pretty pita sandwiches (honey-glazed pork with spicy whipped feta, or beef cheeks braised in red wine and grilled peppers) and shelves stocked with good stuff, to get your grubby little fingers on (Cretan whole wheat Crete crispbreads, Monogram olive oils). Feeling thirsty in the local dialect? Dimitri also has a cast of great natural wines, including a sparkling rodotis from Domaine Tetramythos, or Amos, a assyrtiko from Myrsini. // Thomas Jossin

THE HIDDEN GEM: The salmon tarama marinated in ouzo and lemon zest (€6.60 for 100 g).