restaurant

Le Truffaut

Le Truffaut (Paris)

© Lea Neuville

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Not only does Jean-Baptiste Jay run the tapas joint, Jourdain, in the 20th arrondissement, but now he’s teamed up with Olivier Retel (who he stole from the motherhouse) for his new restaurant, Le Truffaut, in the heart of the Batignolles neighborhood. The spot in question? A clean little bistro designed by Atelier Bo (hardwood floors, brick walls, charred orange banquettes, Daniel Gallo suspension lamps), where the young chef Camille Pic-Pâris (ex-Mamie) trusses together some nice globetrotting bistro fare. The day we went for lunch, there was: a runny œuf parfait with a red kuri squash cream, caramelized onions and chestnuts; tender roasted pork loin with a jus de viande infused with Meaux mustard, and new potatoes; before a comforting chocolate, praline and toasted hazelnut tart paired with raw cream and lime. At night, Camille raises the bar a little higher: scallops, sunchoke purée and veal jus; duck breast, celery purée and a grape sauce… // J.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Primarily clean wines: a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Vignerons d’Estézargues, a Vouvray from Sébastien Brunet (€7 a glass), a red blend from the Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette in the Hérault department (€35 a bottle), an Anjou Chenin from Loïc Mahé (€50)…

PRICE: Menu €25 (lunch), menu-carte €35 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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