Le Truffaut

Not only does Jean-Baptiste Jay run the tapas joint, Jourdain, in the 20^th arrondissement, but now he’s teamed up with Olivier Retel (who he stole from the motherhouse) for his new restaurant, Le Truffaut, in the heart of the Batignolles neighborhood. The spot in question? A clean little bistro designed by Atelier Bo (hardwood floors, brick walls, charred orange banquettes, Daniel Gallo suspension lamps), where the young chef Camille Pic-Pâris (ex-Mamie) trusses together some nice globetrotting bistro fare. The day we went for lunch, there was: a runny œuf parfait with a red kuri squash cream, caramelized onions and chestnuts; tender roasted pork loin with a jus de viande infused with Meaux mustard, and new potatoes; before a comforting chocolate, praline and toasted hazelnut tart paired with raw cream and lime. At night, Camille raises the bar a little higher: scallops, sunchoke purée and veal jus; duck breast, celery purée and a grape sauce… // J.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Primarily clean wines: a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Vignerons d’Estézargues, a Vouvray from Sébastien Brunet (€7 a glass), a red blend from the Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette in the Hérault department (€35 a bottle), an Anjou Chenin from Loïc Mahé (€50)…

PRICE: Menu €25 (lunch), menu-carte €35 (dinner).