In Paris’ 20^th arrondissement, aka the capital’s new culinary Garden of Eden, Jean-Baptiste Jay’s cheeky restaurant Le Jourdain (a striped bar, spotted mirrors, Daniel Gallo light fixtures) could almost serve as a ring leader with its six years in the game. In the kitchens, you’ll now find the enchanting Célia Nguyen (ex-Chateaubriand) who delights diners with her sparkling dishes. The other day at lunch, the menu featured: a salad of beetroot, leeks and orange that worked its alchemy on us; a delicious tomatoey cuttlefish ragù over a bed of Israeli couscous and marinated peppers; before stewed rhubarb, coconut mascarpone and a cocoa crumble, for the small dessert. At night, seafood tapas take to the high seas: mackerel crudo in ponzu sauce, fried smelt, veal tartare with an oyster mayonnaise… // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? Lovely natural wines: Le Marmot, a Languedoc red from Olivier Pichon (€6 a glass), Pharmarkon, a Roussillon red (€35 a bottle), Lapin Blanc, an Anjou from Eric Dubois (€48), a Maranges from AMI (€56)…

PRICE: Menu €16-19 (lunch), plates €7-13 (dinner).