Lorraine Sourdille brilliantly runs this refreshing neighborhood spot (swimming pool tiling, light wooden furniture) named after the cult-favorite film Coup de Tête starring Patrick Dewaere… Running the kitchen you’ll find Jaime Corzo Lemos (ex-Alléno and Rostang), a cocinero with Colombian roots sending out bistro dishes to great critical acclaim. Served à la carte: cool gazpacho refreshed with a pepper sorbet; lovely octopus shaken up by a golden rouille sauce and black olives, served with massive fried potatoes; before a finale dedicated to his master Michel Rostang, a small pot of chocolate pudding that’ll turn you into an addict. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Stripped of 50 cases of wine before we were there (!), the house is slowly filling its reserves back up: an enjoyable Pinot d’Aunis Loire from Brendan Tracey (€6.50 a glass), a supernatural Ardèche blend from Antonin Azzoni (€27 a bottle)… or a good organic brew from the Brasserie du Slalom on tap (€4 for a half-pint).

PRICE: Set menu €15.50 (lunch), plates €7-19 (dinner).