Here at Rooster, chef Frederic Duca (fresh from a stint at Racines New York) can now strut around with his chest puffed out inside this beautiful Parisian chicken coop featuring a marble bar, dim lighting and bright, neon blue accents. In his sparkling clean kitchen, the cocoricook from Marseille sends out some very impressive dishes along with some more ordinary fare: lustful lamb sweetbread beignets with a flavorful puttanesca dipping sauce (€8); iconic panisses served with a southern accent (€6); a feather-raising tartare of veal, razor clams, fresh tarragon and smoked ricotta (€16); good flash-seared squid with preserved lemon, chorizo and parsley oil (€14); pollack that was unfortunately overcooked, saved by browned squash and a green crab jus (€30) – or some impeccable squid ink linguine with sea urchin (€21); before mini lime meringues, aniseed shortbread and a delicious olive oil sorbet surrounded by dots of lemon cream, for a somewhat cheap finale (€10). To wash it all down, there’s a classic but not inexpensive wine list: Les Granges, an elegant Chinon from Baudry (€8 a glass), an organic Patrimonio from Leccia (€60 a bottle according to the menu, but €74 on the bill… scandalous!), or the legendary raspberry eau-de-vie from Binner (€10 for 40 ml). FYI! Although they were almost certainly still working out the kinks, seven nights after opening, we waited two and half hours for our appetizer, main and dessert… Lunch menus €26-32, tasting menu €68 (4 courses), à la carte €40-68. // G.LeP.