Firstly, they had to swim all the way to Mexico, collecting top-notch shellfish and seafood along the way, before bringing it back to the Ménilmontant neighborhood and opening this small spot that has already earned itself a big reputation. Oliver Lomeli, Julio Guerrero and Antony Robine, the trio behind Chambre Noire (along with Furia, Cave Canaille, Fitzcaraldo and Centre Culturel) have crafted a space centered around an oak bar and benches, all under the glow of a disco ball and Art Deco globular light fixtures. The blackboard menu is the work of chef César Pleaez, who crafts generous dishes: fiery mussels marinière from Mont-Saint-Michel; a dazzling bed of leeks cooked to golden perfection and moistened with vinaigrette, topped with eggs mimosa and toasted hazelnuts; mackerel ceviche, a magical composition that was marinated and then tossed on the grill for a few seconds, plus some Corsican clementine supremes for added zing, smoky chipotle and cilantro salsa; flaky cod paired with garlic cream, chimichurri and pan-fried potatoes, served alongside blue or white corn tortillas and tostadas… Round it all off with a stunning “gâteau de Zoé” made using Pierre Jancou’s recipe, aka a flourless and intensely chocolatey lava cake, with added richness from olive oil and a rapid cooking time. · Philo Sale-Ami

FEELING THIRSTY? Low-intervention alchemy takes place in these bottles: Bavière Chambre Noire, a skin-contact wine produced by Andy Weigand (€7 a glass), Le P’tit Blanc, an Anjou chenin from the Domaine des Sablonnettes (same price), and Fioretti, a Lot malbec by Ostal Levant (€44 a bottle). Also available: homemade kefir and Joven Espadín mezcal by El Rey Zapoteco (€5 each).

PRICE: À la carte €30-45.