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Buzkashi, the Afghani national sport practiced on horseback, literally means “the game of catching the goat”! Paintings of the sport liven up this Afghani-vore spot (white woodwork, low benches, kilims, crimson cushions) where no goats can be found on Madame Azizian’s menu. She stews up delicious Kabul treats with Indian, Iranian and Middle Eastern influences: irresistible dumplings (mandoo stuffed with beef or tender aushak stuffed with leeks); incredibly comforting mashawa (a soy sprout soup with red beans and beef); lovely meat plates (kofta, spicy chicken, lamb or marinated veal) or tender lamb saddle slow-roasted with two types of onion – all served with your choice of katcholou potatoes with turmeric, chalram turnips with ginger, lentil dal or a formidable sautéed rice with raisins, carrots and pistachios. For dessert, there’s the unmissable ferni – a pistachio cream with almonds and cardamom. Exquisite service. You’ll need a reservation. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Exoticism guaranteed: homemade dohr (fermented yogurt with cucumber and herbs, €5), chai (saffron, cinnamon and cardamom tea, €3), cherry tea (€4) or chili-honey vodka (€6 for a shot).

PRICE: Mandoo €8 for three, plates €16.50 to €23, desserts €5-7.

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