restaurant

Kokoya

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Inside this tiny Batignolles joint (a mere six tables in a space with no other merits besides a menu written out on the mirror), the small Japanese team is busy at work, walkie-talkies in hand, sending the orders to the kitchen. In the time it takes to boil up an authentic miso soup, the bento of the day sends you on a trip to Japan, all broken down into pretty little compartments and served with chopsticks. The day we went for lunch: crispy breaded chicken with teriyaki sauce; ultra-light salmon and mushroom tempura; a delicate little bowl of very fresh sashimi; a tender Japanese omelet with dashi; a pacific arame and hijiki seaweed salad. All that for 15 bucks, or 17 at night! And for those who would rather eat sushi, there’s a magnificent parade of fish chopped up as if by samurai sword: salmon, mackerel, sea bream, bass, salmon roe or scallops, placed atop a light bed of rice. The desserts are also homemade: black sesame crème brûlée, or red bean mochi. // J.-N.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Plenty for you to toast kanpai with: Asahi, Kirin or Uijin beers (€8 for 330 ml) or unfiltered junmai Sho Chiku Bai sake (€9 for a glass for €18 for 240 ml).

PRICE: Menus €15-19 (weekday lunch) and €17-19 (dinner), sushi €15-19.

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