There are those who sell caviar. And then there’s Petrossian, who cajoles it, glorifies it, sings its praises, illuminates it… For more than a century, in this long blue wood-paneled space, the historic boutique has been delighting fans with its briny pearls and chic little meals: king crab, blinis, smoked fish, taramasalata, fish roe, vodka, foie gras… The caviar in question? There are five varieties, including the famous Beluga caviar (from €69 to €384 for 30 g). The salmon? It’s smoked in house using the same method since 1930, with wild or farmed salmon, prepared plain, with dill, à la caucasienne, or with truffles… (€190 to €220 a kilogram). As for the large take-away section, there are Russian and Eastern European specialties like pirojkis, koulibiaks and vatrushkas. // Albertine Simonet

The hidden gem: The Maviar taramasalata with smoked cod roe, 100 grams of pink bliss served in the house’s legendary little blue boxes (€26 for 125 grams).