Le Gentil

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In one of the capital’s dullest neighborhoods, between Champ-de-Mars and the Palais Bourbon, Fumitoshi Kumagai (ex-Loiseau des Vignes in Beaune) improves the mood of grumpy diners. At Le Gentil, a discreet, minimalist refuge (immaculate walls, blonde wooden furniture), the Japanese chef puts forth unpretentious, seasonal fare. The other day at lunch, the unbeatable €23 menu (we are in the 7th arrondissement after all!) featured: an œuf parfait swimming in a silky sweet potato velouté with chorizo; moist chicken suprême with slow-roasted turnips, celery, broccoli and shimeji mushrooms; before an impeccable cheesecake looking like a gold bar. At night, Fumitoshi raises the tone, adjusts the bill to reflect the location and dives headfirst into French cuisine: roasted pork chops with mashed potatoes, whole pigeon with red lentils, etc. // T.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines for all tastes: a traditional Beaujolais blanc from the Domaine des Marrans (€7 a glass), an organic Bourgogne-Chitry white from Olivier Morin (€40 a bottle), a natural Gard red from Ludovic Engelvin (€42)…

PRICE: Menu €23 (lunch), à la carte €39-55 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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