Unfinished walls, a chaotic array of blackboard menus and bottles of wine, French school furniture…. Less prim and proper than its divine fine dining establishment older sister (Pages, located right next door), this bistronomi-cool spot from Ryuji Teshima brings a little excitement to the culinary desert that is the 16th arrondissement. The lunch service is a little overstimulating, since it’s as noisy as Shibuya City, with overwhelmed staff and an extremely brief menu – donburi (tuna tartare, avocado salad, breaded chicken…) and burgers (wagyu beef with or without teriyaki sauce, katsu chicken) served with homemade fries. But at night, dive headfirst into the rich and varied izakaya-inspired small plates: delicious sautéed shiitake mushrooms; exquisite karaage chicken in a bittersweet marinade, covered in thinly sliced spring onions; a lovely salmon steak marinated in teriyaki sauce; a copious avocado and Parmesan salad; thin and glistening slices of Pata Negra Iberian ham aged for 36 months… And to end the meal, a mango panna cotta with coconut milk coulis, a slice of cheesecake with berry coulis, or matcha, black sesame and hojicha (toasted green tea) ice creams. // Albert Gredinbar
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s Asahi beer (€5 for 250 ml), Uijin beer (€8 for a pint)… and around fifty rather pricey wine: a sauvignon blanc from Antoine de la Farge (€8 a glass), a Sancerre red from the Domaine La Clef du Récit (€45 a bottle) or the Domaine Vacheron (€63), an Hautes-Côtes-de-Nutis white from Aurélien Verdet (€60), a Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil from François-Xavier Barc (€40)…
PRICE: Donburi €16.50, burgers from €17.50 to €19 (lunch), small plates €6-21 (dinner).
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