After nearly twenty years of service, legendary wine shop owner Gérard Katz decided to hand over the keys of his Cave des Papilles to Ewen Le Moigne in 2020, the former sommelier at Clown Bar and Saturne. But purists can rest easy: the house is maintaining its strictly naturophile philosophy, bringing together bottles by star producers (Landron, Foillard, Puzelat…) and ones by more under-the-radar winemakers – including Les Milans, an Auvergne red from Marie and Vincent Tricot (€20) and Grande Nuit, a Gers orange wine from Leïla Pailhès (€22.70). It’s also worth noting that Ewen has two driving passions: big bottles (like this liter bottle of Angevin red wine for €15, labeled Cave des Papilles and produced exclusively with Damien Bureau), and the Jura terroir, offering up most notably Face B, a Savagnin ouillé from Jean-Baptiste Menigoz (€34.70). The épicerie corner also demonstrates the house’s careful sourcing practices: andouillette from Daniel Thierry, jarred preparations from Vincent Marion, Profil Grec olive oil… // Paul Hacket

The bullet-proof bottle: À Griffes Acérées, an Alsatian white from Christophe Lindenlaud (€14.10).