Cellar

La cave des papilles

©La Cave des Papilles

  • Date
  • share

After nearly twenty years of service, legendary wine shop owner Gérard Katz decided to hand over the keys of his Cave des Papilles to Ewen Le Moigne in 2020, the former sommelier at Clown Bar and Saturne. But purists can rest easy: the house is maintaining its strictly naturophile philosophy, bringing together bottles by star producers (Landron, Foillard, Puzelat…) and ones by more under-the-radar winemakers – including Les Milans, an Auvergne red from Marie and Vincent Tricot (€20) and Grande Nuit, a Gers orange wine from Leïla Pailhès (€22.70). It’s also worth noting that Ewen has two driving passions: big bottles (like this liter bottle of Angevin red wine for €15, labeled Cave des Papilles and produced exclusively with Damien Bureau), and the Jura terroir, offering up most notably Face B, a Savagnin ouillé from Jean-Baptiste Menigoz (€34.70). The épicerie corner also demonstrates the house’s careful sourcing practices: andouillette from Daniel Thierry, jarred preparations from Vincent Marion, Profil Grec olive oil… // Paul Hacket

The bullet-proof bottle: À Griffes Acérées, an Alsatian white from Christophe Lindenlaud (€14.10). 

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!
About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.