Kigawa

Following a snazzy makeover, Kigawa now has a monochromatic grey color palette with smartly dressed tables (white tablecloths, sparkling glassware, single stem vases) with and a gigantic bouquet of flowers in the center of the room. What should you expect? Cuisine that’s more French than Japanese, executed by Michihiro Kigawa (ex-Maximin in Venice and Ducasse in Monaco) and brought to the table rather ceremoniously by the waitstaff. The day we went for lunch, we had all of the following: chilled squash-melon soup with delicately fried pollack as the impeccable prologue to the meal; tuna tartare atop an avocado cream placed in the middle of a composition of alternating Ananas and Roma tomatoes with pepper coulis and black lime zest; whiting filet cooked to golden perfection and paired with a cheeky chanterelle risotto drizzled in a full-bodied white wine sauce and green oil; a rosy veal chop paired with crisp late summer broad beans and white beans in a red wine reduction; before a fromage blanc ice cream shaking up a delicate mint jelly along with strawberries, blueberries and slivered grapefruit. On the dinner menu, things get even fancier: foie gras terrine, pan-fried bass, roasted venison… // Pica Bidon