Following a snazzy makeover by Studio ES, Kigawa now has a monochromatic grey color palette with smartly dressed tables (white tablecloths, shiny glasses, single stem vases) and a gigantic bouquet of flowers in the center of the room. What should you expect? Cuisine that’s more French than Japanese, executed by Michihiro Kigawa. The day we went for lunch, the “petit” menu featured: a sunny yellow tomato gazpacho with crabmeat, topped with a translucent toasted bread tuile for the amuse-bouche; a delicious bluefin tuna carpaccio with tomatoes, beets, Nice lemon coulis, black and pink radishes; ultra-crispy beef tongue in a full-bodied jus, with peas, carrots and coco de Paimpol beans; before a game of mikado with subtle meringue sticks covering iced yuzu nougat. If you opt for the “grand” menus, you get all that plus: Périgord foie gras terrine, roasted pigeon with wild mushrooms, pecan soufflé… // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic and even natural wines: a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€7.50 a glass), a Saint-Péray white from the Domaine Courbis (€47 a bottle) or, to heat things up, an Échezeaux-grand-cru from the Domaine Anne Gros (€233). Plus a few sakes (€15-19 for 60 ml) and whiskeys, including a delicately peaty Hakushu (€29 for 40 ml).
PRICE: Set menus 35 € (lunch), 65-80 €, Menu 54-155 €.