Ramen Wang

Did you think ramen was Japanese? Big mistake! And Weijun Wang is on a mission to restore the original Chinese version to its rightful glory. Tucked away on the quiet Rue des Plantes, the Wenzhounese chef and his wife Shu Yan (who also works as a stylist) will have you slurping up noodles that are “lighter and less salty” than the Japanese version in their sleek, minimalist 24-seater that features an open kitchen, a light oak bar and a grey concrete-clad wall. The night we went, a wave of umami hit us full force: delicate, gem-like slices of raw hamachi draped in razor-thin radish ribbons, all electrified by a punchy yuzu sauce; roasted eggplant perfectly glazed in miso; a divine Tori Shio Ramen, where chicken chashu, menma (a bamboo shoot condiment), red onion and scallions came together in perfect harmony in a silky chicken broth, simmered for 10 hours; before ending the meal with sweet apple gyozas, best paired with a scoop of black sesame or green tea ice cream. // Lester Grossmann

FEELING THIRSTY? Kirin beer (€5 for 330 ml), Dassai saké (€10 for 150 ml) and genmaicha tea (€4).
PRICE: : Set menu €21 (weekday lunch), appetizers €4-15, ramen €15-28, desserts €8-14.